Mostar

A mix of eastern and western Europe with a stunning bridge straddling the cultures and the Neretva River; Mostar is the gem of Bosnia Herzegovina. A stroll down the cobbled streets of Mostar in a compact Old Town area is a delight. In a day we were able to see the famous bridge jumpers, sip Bosnian coffee, buy souvenirs on Coppersmith’s street and tour both the Koski Mehmet-Pasha Mosque and the Biscevic Turkish House.

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Old Bridge

We started our day at the super star of the city; Stari Most (Old Bridge). The bridge is beautiful and full of history. The name Mostar comes from the 16th century “watchers of the bridge”, Mostari. The bridge was constructed in just 9 years and was considered a technological wonder of its time. As we climbed the limestone arches, we were careful with each step. The stone is smooth and the steps are placed at awkward intervals.

At the apex, young men stand outside the railing, prepping to make the 75 foot leap into the river below. As crowds gather, they pass a hat around both at bridge level and on the banks below collecting money for their daring feat. Just as we were growing tired of waiting, a young man jumped. Jumping from the bridge is a long standing tradition. At one time it was considered a rite of passage for young Bosnian boys. Today, it’s equal parts tradition and tourist attraction.

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Koski Memhet-Pasha Mosque

After crossing Old Bridge, we continued up Coppersmith’s Street for some souvenir shopping and then made our way to Koski Mehmet-Pasha mosque. There are ten mosques in Mostar and the call to prayer can be heard five times per day throughout the city. Visiting Koski Memhet-Pasha mosque is very accessible to tourists. There is no need to take our shoes off, I didn’t need to cover my hair and pictures are allowed. Outside the mosque is a fountain. Here worshipers wash and cleanse their bodies and minds before being in the presence of Allah. Once inside, we were awed by the detailed niche-facing Mecca and the small stairway that serves as a pulpit.

On the way to climb the minaret, we stopped off at the balcony where historically woman prayed from, so as to not be a distraction to male worshipers. Today, women can pray on the main level as long as they have not physical contact with the men. From the minaret, you get sweeping views of the city and one of the best looks at Old Bridge. It was the optimal place to take a family selfie.

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Biscevic Turkish House

After spiraling our way down the minaret steps, we walked further down Coppersmiths Street until we reached Biscevic Turkish House. A visit the the house will take just a few minutes and there really is not much to see but it was very interesting. The house dates back to 1635 and is typical of homes in Mostar at that time.

For four marks, you’ll take off your shoes and walk up the draw bridge like stairs to see the airy living room and bedroom of the home. In the gathering room there is a trunk of traditional costumes. Our boys but on a vest, baggy pants and a fez and sat cross legged to lounge for a moment.

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Bosnian Coffee

For a mid-afternoon break, we bought the boys gelato and stopped into Cafe Alma to sip Bosnian coffee. The lovely employee at Alma brought out our coffee, explained the process of how it’s made and answered our questions about this unique experience. The coffee was strong and hot. It’s meant to be enjoyed slowly with a sweet treat, like the rose Turkish delight seen in the picture below.

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Mostar at Night

Meandering through the streets after sun down was the last item on our agenda while in Mostar. All cities take on a special warmth under the glow of evening light. Mostar is no exception. The streets remain vibrant late into the evening with people browsing street side shops or enjoying drinks. The glow of the city and the sounds of it’s vibrant cultures was an excellent farewell to Mostar.

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Where to stay

• Our location and apartment with a fabulous balcony view was incredible. We were on walking distance to everything and had an underground garage parking space to use.
• We booked the Belview Old Town Apartment through AirBnB.

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What and where to eat

• We had delicious meals at Restoran Hindin Han and Restoran Sadrvan. At Restoran Teater, the food was fine but the views were amazing.
• Again dessert. Order the Tufahije. Tufahije is an apple stuffed with crushed walnuts and cooked in syrup and then topped with whipped cream. Yum.

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Tips and Tricks

• Wear super comfortable shoes. The streets of Old Town Mostar are very uneven and often ‘paved’ with rock of large river rocks.
• Mostar can be crowded, especially around the bridge. Be aware of your surroundings.
• Like most cities, a stroll after dark is a delight.

Our Western Balkan adventure took us to Lake Bled-Slovenia, Plitvice Lakes National Park, Split, Dubrovnik and Kotor. Click the links above for more details on those trips.

Happy Adventuring, Rochelle